BRAVING THE "ELEMENTS"

On Sunday night, 19 October 2003, I went to the restaurant, Elements, with my mother and grandmother. Executive Chef Charles Wiley offers "farm-fresh American cuisine with Asian accents." Unfortunately, our evening started off with an unpleasant experience. The restaurant is located just off McDonald road in a light barren section of Paradise Valley. Their tiny sign was nearly impossible to see. Fortunately, the speed limit was only 25, so we were going slow enough to not miss it. After driving up the hill, we arrived at the restaurant and the parking was equally ambiguous. There were two lanes which would signify, in any other restaurant on Earth, that the lane closest to the restaurant is the valet and the other is for self parking. This was an error in assumption as we later discovered. When I got out of my car, after parking in a lot with no posted signs, I was verbally assaulted by the valet. Apparently, this was a valet-only parking and, if I wanted to park myself, I would have to park down the hill. Not wanting to move my car, I gave in and surrendered my keys. I walked through the very dark lot to the front door.

Things then took a turn for the better. The entry to the restaurant was very clean and well kept. The maitre d' was friendly, especially when we asked her if we could change to a patio table. She politely asked us if we could please wait for about five minutes while they made up a table. This gave us a chance to check out the restrooms. They were both clean and offered soap, lotion and very nice heavy-duty disposable towels. It seemed a little small; especially for someone in a wheelchair. My mother commented about the door. The men's bathroom proudly displayed the full word - "MEN." The other one, however, only said "W." Apparently, they ran out of money and could not afford the rest of the letters. When we returned to the waiting area, we looked around the inside of the restaurant. It was decorated in an Asian motif, with smoked glass shutters separating the sections. On the far wall, floor to ceiling windows afford an amazing view of the valley below. The "Jade Bar" is off to the side and has the same style of decoration as the restaurant.

The maitre d' arrived and escorted us to our table after a very short wait - definitely no more than the five minutes we were promised. The patio was small, containing only about ten tables. There were large umbrellas with indirect lighting. While it was dark, it was not too dark to read the menu. It created a very nice atmosphere. There was quiet music playing in the background, which I found a little inappropriate for the restaurant. I would expect classical or even light jazz, but we were being given soft rock. One could really only hear the bass. We were lucky enough to get one of the tables on the edge that also overlooked the valley. As we sat down, we noticed the table itself. It was decorated with a plain beige tablecloth, small salt and pepper shakers and a small Asian-style candle lamp with dirty glass. The silverware was wrapped in the napkins - something that, to me, screams "Denny's." At least they were cloth. Once unwrapped, the silverware, as well as the bread plates matched the Asian motif well. The glassware was very plain - not much to write home about. We were given our menu, a one page number that had the words "October Dinner" on the top. I assumed that this restaurant changes its menu monthly. As this was the second time I'd been here and nothing looked familiar, this was probably an accurate assumption. The menu was broken down into four categories - beginnings, salads, entrees and sides. It was a limited menu, ten, four, eight and six items respectively. My companions liked this kind of menu - I was on the fence. I prefer a larger menu, but understand that, usually, if they only do a few things, they do them very well. The starters ranged from eight to twenty-four dollars, the salads from eight to ten and the entrees from twenty to thirty-four. The descriptions were very wordy. For example, "roasted duck breast with sesame rice cake, honey glazed turnips and orange tamarind glaze." One step more and the entire recipe would have been printed. And of course, the omnipresent disclaimer, "20% gratuity will be added to parties of six or more." One disclaimer that I found very refreshing was "we respectfully request that all cell phones be turned off while dining in the restaurant."

In a sexist move, the waiter gave me the wine list, when it was my companions that would be ordering wine. I believe it is more appropriate to put it in the center of the table and, that way, anyone that wants to look at it can. The extensive list was very California heavy with a few stars from Italy, France, New Zealand and Australia. There were thirty-seven wines available by the glass and they ranged from seven to eighteen dollars. The bottles numbered one hundred and seventeen (yes, I counted) and ranged from twenty-six to three hundred dollars (Louis Roederer "Cristal" Champagne).

Ryan, our server, was very friendly, though his sales skills could use some work. The first thing he asked us was "are you okay with water?" My mother and grandmother ordered a glass of wine and it was then that I saw a slight glimmer of hope. He asked if they were okay with just the glasses and I waited for the inevitable offer of a full bottle. But it never came. When my mother wanted another glass of wine later in the meal, SHE had to ask him. When I emptied my tonic water, I waited in vain for the offer of another. He explained the special - grilled char served over couscous with a miso vinaigrette. That would have been sufficient. However, he went into great "who cares" detail about just exactly where the fish came from (east coast farm raised). He did know his stuff, however, and when my grandmother asked him what "garlic mash" was, he made a joke about chefs not using the whole word. He explained that is was, indeed, garlic mashed potatoes.

We began with the "farmers market salad - young organic lettuce, radish and balsamic vinaigrette" for my mother, "butter lettuce & maytag blue cheese with apples, bacon and spiced walnuts" for my grandmother and "baked brie & prosciutto tart with roasted tomatoes and honey balsamic drizzle" for me. Unlike the bread plates, these plates were just plain white - very unremarkable. The tart was served on a plate that had very high edges, which made it very difficult to cut. The food itself was excellent, however. Mine was a round of Phyllo dough, topped with prosciutto and melted Brie cheese. The balsamic vinegar was drizzled around it on the plate and garnished with some dressed greens and roasted tomatoes. I enjoyed it so much that I am planning to replicate it at my next party. Both of the ladies were very happy with their salads as well. A few minutes after the appetizers/salads were cleared, a piece of bread was placed on each bread plate with a pair of tongs. This was the subject of much debate at the table. One camp really like this versus the "basket" concept. I was in the other camp. If done properly, I could have accepted it, but, after the first piece of bread was eaten, we never saw another piece. The butter was served in a small, square dish, appropriate to the Asian theme of the restaurant. Not long after the bread was served, the waiter arrived with our main course. My mother and grandmother both had the special and I had the "grilled colorado lamb chops with goat cheese potato cake and red pepper jelly." While Ryan was extremely friendly, he didn't observe the etiquette rules of "serve from the left, clear from the right." Also, a tray was used to serve the plates, but never again. He cleared the table into his arms and used whichever hand was the most convenient. The dinner, however, more than made up for his lack of detail. Like my appetizer, all the dinners came with high-sided plates that made it difficult to eat. The char was served with the skin - a real turn off to my mother. There was a little too much miso vinaigrette - she even had to scrape some of it off. Other than that, she really enjoyed it. She gave me a taste and the couscous, a grain that is typically boring and tasteless, was well flavored and wonderful. Any chef that can make couscous taste good is aces in my book. As far as my dish, the red pepper jelly was a great accent to the meat, but overpowered the accompanying spinach. There were four perfectly frenched lamb chops, cooked to perfection. The potato cake was properly cooked and not overpowering with the goat cheese flavor. Although there were salt and pepper on the table, the entire package was seasoned so well that they were superfluous. The whole presentation was simple, yet elegant. All in all, the meal was excellent.

We were very satisfied after dinner but, for the sake of education, we had to try at least one dessert. We shared the "warm apple caramel tart with vanilla bean ice cream." I have had dishes in the past that promise, but do not deliver, "warm." This one lived up to the promise and it was delicious. It was another round of Phyllo dough, topped with thinly sliced cinnamon apples and vanilla ice cream. It was a little hard to eat as the apples were still a little "al dente" - especially with the spoon, which was the only utensil we were given. The flavors, however, were excellent.

We never saw the maitre d' again until we left. She didn't really manage the dining room in any way, shape or form. She never checked with our table to see how everything was, nor was there any kind of manager. There was one man in a business suit that walked to the end of the patio, then went back inside. He may have been the manager, checking things out, but more likely was a lost patron. Either way, he made no contact (including eye) with any of the guests.

Our waters were refilled for the first time right before dessert, although the glasses had been empty since before the entree. We ordered coffee with the dessert and it was automatically delivered with cream and four different kinds of sugar. The latter was in packages personalized with the restaurant's name and logo. After dessert, the waiter asked if we wanted more coffee, rather than just bringing it to us. Our check was brought in a timely manner with a quartet of sweets. It was picked up and returned in an equally timely fashion. The entire dinner, with tip, came to around $200.00.

As I left, I gave my ticket to the fabulous valet, apologizing for the earlier misunderstanding. He proceeded to hand me my keys saying, "It's right where you parked it." There goes his tip! Upon returning home, I went to the Internet and found some great information on their website, http://www.sanctuaryoncamelback.com/elements/, such as their menu and a brief description of their concept. I discovered that they are not only open for dinner, they are open for breakfast, brunch and lunch as well. Also, they offer a "Community Table" inside for diners eating alone or "couples that are drawn to the appeal of sharing a dining experience with new acquaintances." One thing that the website claims is that "In the Asian tradition, diners are greeted with a hot steamed towel." This was not the case in our experience. Either the waiter forgot or they no longer offer that service.

If I were running the place, I would change a few things. First and foremost, I would fire the valet and hire someone with a personality who realizes that, without customers, he wouldn't have a job. This "first impression" is very important and a bad one casts a cloud over the whole evening, even if the food is exquisite. Second, I like the idea of tray service and would implement it throughout the entire experience. I would also get rid of the high sided plates and replace them with something that better fits the Asian motif. I would train my staff on sales a little better, possibly offering incentives. I don't want my servers asking if water is okay. I want them asking if the guest would like a bottle of wine. While the Asian lamps were not as offensive to me as to others in my group, I would insist on them at least being clean. Finally, I would make it a little easier to access at night. While the setting matches the idea of the "Sanctuary Resort," it wasn't exactly bustling with business. We made a peak time reservation with less than twenty-four hours notice. If it were easier to find, it might have more patronage. Maybe with a few of these attentions to detail, it can become another "French Laundry."